How to Fit MX Graphics
How to fit motocross graphics so they stay on
A premium kit fitted badly will peel before a cheap kit fitted properly. Almost every lifted edge we ever see comes down to one of three things: dirty plastics, a rushed edge, or no heat. Half an hour of patience buys you a season.
What you need
- Contact cleaner, brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol — not soapy water, not WD-40
- Clean lint-free cloths
- A heat gun on low, or a hair dryer
- A soft squeegee, or a credit card wrapped in a cloth
- A warm room, ideally 18–25 °C
Step 1 — Take the plastics off the bike
It's tempting to skip this. Don't. Off the bike you can reach every edge, pull the vinyl properly around a curve, and press down from behind. On the bike you'll always leave one edge half-stuck.
Step 2 — Strip the old graphics
Warm the old kit gently with a heat gun and peel slowly at a shallow angle. Then remove every trace of old adhesive. Residue is glue that isn't sticking to anything — leave it and your new kit is only stuck to old glue.
Step 3 — Clean, then clean again
Wash the plastics, dry them, then wipe every surface with contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a clean cloth. Change cloths as they get dirty. Plastics need to be completely dry and completely free of grease, silicone, tyre shine and polish. If your fingers have been on the surface, wipe it again.
Step 4 — Dry fit first
Hold each piece in place with the backing still on and check the orientation against the product photo. Note where it needs to stretch. Number plates and shrouds go on first, fenders last — the big flat pieces are the forgiving ones.
Step 5 — Peel a little, not all
Fold back roughly 5 cm of the backing, line up one edge and lay it down. Then peel the backing away progressively as you work across, pressing from the centre outwards with the squeegee. Peeling the whole backing off at once is how you get creases and trapped air.
Step 6 — Heat for curves, not for flats
On shrouds and fenders the vinyl has to follow a compound curve. Warm it gently — the aim is pliable, not hot — and stretch it into the shape while pressing down. Keep the gun moving. Overheating stretches the print and distorts the artwork.
Step 7 — Work every edge twice
Go back around the whole piece and press down each edge hard with your thumb, especially around cutouts, bolt holes and corners. Then warm the edges briefly and press again. Edges are where a kit fails, so this is the step worth doing twice.
Step 8 — Leave it alone for 24 hours
The adhesive needs time to bond. Refit the plastics, park the bike somewhere warm and don't ride, wash or pressure wash for a full day. This one step alone prevents most first-ride lifting.
Keeping them looking new
- Keep a pressure washer at least 30 cm away, use a wide fan and never aim at an edge or seam.
- Wash off mud before it dries hard.
- Avoid strong solvents and petrol on the graphics.
- Reseat any lifting corner early with heat and thumb pressure — a 2 mm lift becomes a 5 cm tear.
Common mistakes
- Fitting in a cold garage. Below about 15 °C the adhesive never fully grabs.
- Soapy water. Wet application works for wraps, not for MX graphics. Fit ours dry.
- Trimming. Our kits are cut on bike-specific templates — if a piece seems not to fit, check you have the right panel before reaching for a knife.
- Riding the same day. Give it 24 hours.
Not sure about something?
Send us a photo before you commit. Email order@ard88.se and we'll tell you how we'd do it.
